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                                                            September 3, 2010
The Tolsey Clock
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-Sep 3: New baby massage classes
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St Marys Church. Photo: George Way
Wotton-under-Edge's Principal Buildings

Unlike many country towns in which the parish church, market place and principal buildings lie close to one another, Wotton has no recognised centre point. Its church and the Chipping, or old market place, are nearly half a mile apart and separated by the busy Long Street and High Street.

The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin is the town's most important architectural feature.
The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin is the town's most important architectural feature.   Photo: George Way
The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin is the town's most important architectural feature. It is framed by trees and possesses a fine late 14th century tower. Although there was certainly an earlier church, the present building is no earlier than the 13th century and was consecrated in 1283. The whole church was by no means complete at the time of its consecration and reflects many structural changes over the centuries. The base of the tower, which has a notable peal of eight bells (cast in Gloucester in 1756), is of the early 14th century, while the upper stages form an admirable example of Perpendicular Gothic architecture of the late 14th century. It is described by David Verey in Pevsner's Buildings of England (Gloucestershire: The Cotswolds): "It is one of the most splendid Perp towers in the county". The South porch, which bears a sundial and has a priest's chamber above, contains a restored 13th century doorway leading to the interior.

With exceptionally wide aisles and only a few stained glass windows, together with clean white walls, the interior of the church gives an immediate impression of size and lightness. In 1838, a former Vicar, the Rev. Benjamin Perkins, caused the nave to be extended by two bays and the sanctuary modified and reduced to its present form. Several roof levels can be seen on the west wall.

The organ was originally in St. Martin in the Fields and played regularly by Handel.
The organ was originally in St. Martin in the Fields and played regularly by Handel.
The columns on the north side of the nave carry interesting and well carved capitals, while those on the south side, alternately round and octagonal, have plain capitals. The north aisle contains a small five sided chapel commonly called the Katharine Chapel - though the reason for this is uncertain. The name may be derived from Katharine Lady Berkeley or from St. Catherine of Alexandria, the patron saint of weavers. The fireplace from its use as a vestry for a time from 1780 survives. There are several stained glass windows of saints and New Testament scenes.

At the east end of the south aisle is the organ built by Christopher (Kit) Schrider and given to St. Martin in the Fields by King George I in 1726. It was regularly played there by Handel. In 1799 the churchwardens sold it to the Vicar, the Rev. William Tattersall, for £200, the King having paid £1500 for it. Tattersall set it up in 1800 in a gallery at the west end and it was moved to its present location in 1881 when the galleries at the west end were removed. It was beautifully restored in the 1990s.

At the east end of the north aisle, just outside the vestry is an early 15th century table tomb, the famous Berkeley Tomb, bearing life sized brasses of Thomas, 10th Baron de Berkeley (1352-1417), and his wife, Margaret. These are among the best brasses of their period in the country and so, in order to protect them, rubbing may now only be done (for a small fee) from facsimiles placed conveniently near.

The Perry and Dawes Almshouses in Church Street.
The Perry and Dawes Almshouses in Church Street.   Photo: Gloucestershire County Council Environment Department
There are numerous wall memorials, some of which reveal interesting details of past citizens of Wotton. There are many fine details to observe: corbel heads, ceiling bosses (note in particular the fine pelicans - a symbol of the atonement), piscinas, parish chests. The stained glass windows are attractive though none are very ancient: in the north aisle near the Berkeley Tomb is a copy by Hardman of Joshua Reynolds' figures depicting 'Faith', 'Charity' and 'Hope'. In the East window, framed by Decorated tracery is 'Christ in Majesty' above panels of saints, kings, prophets and other Biblical figures. To the right is 'The Adoration of the Magi' and in the south aisle the window, in memory of the Tait family, depicts the Pentecost, while the West window shows the Ascension.

There are three groups of Almshouses, evidence of Wotton.s concern for the aged, and all of which continue in use today. The earliest of these is one of the most notable examples in the town of traditional Cotswold stone building. Hugh Perry in the 17th century and Thomas Dawes in the 18th were responsible for the Almshouses which bear their names in Church Street. The first buildings were erected in 1638 as a result of a bequest by Hugh Perry, with accommodation for six poor men and six poor women. The building has six gables facing the street and a central domed wooden cupola. A flat-arched passageway leads into a courtyard in which is situated a beautiful, tiny 17th century chapel. The Dawes hospital of 1720 completes the rectangle on the east side. Visitors are welcome to enter this quiet enclosure, which "seems like an Oxford college in miniature" (David Verey).

A stained glass window in the Perry and Dawes Almshouses Chapel.
A stained glass window in the Perry and Dawes Almshouses Chapel.   Photo: Gloucestershire County Council Environment Department

The second row of almshouses was founded by Miss Ann Bearpacker in 1837. They stand in two groups of five opposite the parish church, next to Parklands. An extensive programme of restoration and modernisation has just been completed, making them suitable for continued use into the 21st century but without losing anything of their traditional appearance. The Rowland Hill Almshouses, with their wooden verandas, founded in 1887 in memory of the Rev. Rowland Hill, may be seen just below the Tabernacle in Tabernacle Pitch at the top of Old Town.

The Ann Bearpacker Almshouses opposite the church.
The Ann Bearpacker Almshouses opposite the church.   Photo: George Way

Another important focal point in Wotton is the Tolsey House, at the corner of High Street and Market Street. This building, with its well known Victoria Jubilee clock, is much older than it appears to be as the 18th century brick facade conceals a late 16th century house with projecting upper floors. It possesses a Cotswold stone tiled roof, capped by a fine bell turret and a dragon weather vane. It was given to the town by Anne, Countess of Warwick, in 1595, originally for the poor aged and impotent, but it soon served as the Court of Piepowder with a courtroom on the ground floor and a common prison or blind house in the cellar. It is now in private ownership although the clock belongs to the Town Council. A new clock was provided in 1683 and there was a dial set on a post until Queen Victoria's Jubilee in 1887.

The Town Hall was originally built as a market house rising on fifteen Doric stone columns, similar to those in Tetbury and Dursley.
The Town Hall was originally built as a market house rising on fifteen Doric stone columns, similar to those in Tetbury and Dursley.   Photo: George Way
The Town Hall stands in Market Street opposite the Star Inn, one of several ancient inns in the town. The star has a claim to fame revealed when the recent film of the Titanic came out and was shown at the Town Cinema (currently closed) just opposite. John Cambridge, whose father was the licensee of the Star, grew up here in the 18th century. Later he emigrated to Prince Edward Island in Canada, becoming a shipbuilder and founding the White Star Shipping Line (named after his father's inn in Wotton) which in due course owned the ill-fated Titanic. The open area in front of the Star and the Town Hall is what remains of the Stone or Stony Chipping (distinct from the Green Chipping which is now simply called the Chipping) and was where the market was held. The Town Hall was originally built as a market house in the middle of the Stony Chipping in 1698-1700, of classical proportions, rising on fifteen Doric stone columns, which can still be seen, providing a covered open market at ground level with a large room above like the similar ones in Tetbury and Dursley. The open part was enclosed and altered in 1872, with further work in 1884, giving the whole building its present mid-19th century appearance.


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